WEARING THE SKY

Elizabeth,

You should teach me how to make scarves like these by Maria Alexandra Vettese.
Doesn't it remind you of one of my favorite childhood books?

{As seen on Oh Joy!}

NUTSA MODEBADZE

These Nutsa Modebadze bags from Russia have been making the rounds on the old internets lately and I, for one, am hooked. If only I could figure out where to buy them.

Their austere simplicity, supple materials and disheveled elegance render them ideal for someone like me who cherishes simple, supple, disheveled and elegant.

See more here and let me know if you can figure out where I can get my hands on one.

BALENCIAGA

One afternoon during our stay in Barcelona Mary and I visited the Museu Textil d'Indumentaria, a costume and textile museum located on the university campus. Their permanent collection explores and emphasizes how clothes modify the body through restriction or liberation and includes pieces from the 16th century to present day fashions. I really liked their take on fashion history - visitors are invited to critically observe the manipulation of the body's appearance and draw on historical and contemporary examples in order to visualise how we continue to modify the body’s image with clothes. It's an exploration of clothing and form that makes a lot of sense to me right now.

They also had a small but beautiful collection of vintage pieces from Spanish master Cristobal Balanciaga.
As described by the museum:

'Balenciaga, in a single piece, combines different actions: he simultaneously broadens and reduces, defines and detracts. In this way he gives emphasis to new parts of the body. Day wear and tailored suits are unadorned with pure lines and uncomplicated tailoring. Evening wear uses internal structures to create huge volumes....'

Beautiful.

PANTS CONTROL

Fun thing about being a clothing designer going on vacation: GREAT excuse to try out samples while simultaneously building yourself a brand new Paris wardrobe. Cause Paris demands a new wardrobe.

I made these pants today, 'slacks' as my Nana would call them. Pants are my favorite thing to sew ever, they're like math, not necessarily easy but always turn out right if you follow the formula. Which is funny cause I hate math.

I wanted a simple, well-fitting, basic black pant. High-waisted, tapered ankle, two welt pockets in back and subtle pleats in front (not that you can see any details in these photos) - these will most certainly become a summer staple. I'm really happy with them, the fit is great and I think they'll be good in both low-key and fancier situations. If I were to put them into production I'd make sure they had front pockets though, which this pair does not. I hate not having anywhere to put my hands. Perhaps if I'm lucky my Nana will deem these 'very smart'.

Ugh, excuse my weird red alien limbs, god knows why I can't just be a nice, normal skin colour.

Next up: an ankle length dress to wear in Morocco.

BEEN BUILDING A DRESS

The hardest thing about working on my own (besides the terrifying quantity and quality of conversations I have with the cat) is that there's never anyone around to give me any feedback. With a background in fine arts, I thrive off critiques, and talking through my work with peers is just something I like to do. It's not that I don't trust my own instincts, I do, but explaining & defending my work and hearing observations & criticism from others gives me a stronger perspective and often a stronger piece.

I've been slowly working away at what may be the first dress in my new collection. I think I'll have a better idea of whether or not I want to include it after I come back from my trip. For me this is the first piece designed for the consumption of others that I've worked through entirely alone - it's bizarre that this is a new thing to me.

Hopefully it will get easier with time.

NOW MINE

It feels like all my posts of late simply show recent purchases - hardly well-rounded blogging. Oh well, why change a good thing?

Last week I stopped by Nokomis and picked up two pieces from the new Osei-Duro collection, a favorite line/collaboration between Canadian designers Maryanne Mathias and Molly Keogh along with West African Women's cooperatives, Dzidefo Women’s Cooperative and Baba Blankets Social Enterprise.

Osei-Duro is a line of sustainable clothing integrating hand-spun & dyed West African textiles with contemporary Western fashion concepts. The pieces are conceived and designed by Mathias and Keogh and manufactured in Ghana for an equitable wage by local Women's groups. You can read more about their work on their website. Personally I'm a big fan of their blog which documents their travels throughout Africa and feeds my overwhelming desire to visit there soon.

I got the above Sachel top in black as well as a long, loose tank top in the nebulous purple print on the left. Lovely.

LITTLE GEM

Found this pretty little Balmain scarf at the Antique Mall last week. What a lucky find - and with Paris in my near future too! I think it was a sign.

METHOD + MADNESS

If you're at all interested in design/production process I think you'll find this an amazing video. Filmed over the course of three days, it shows Gareth Pugh's painstaking method of creation - it would make me absolutely crazy. Enjoy.

THIS JUST IN:

Scarf season in Vancouver is over as of today! I just declared it. Now I can go back to wearing scarves by choice, not out of necessity (because they're just so pretty, aren't they?)

QUOTE OF THE DAY

I have design on the brain. Design and everything that goes along with it. I recently finished a 104-week calendar to organize my life and clothing line over the next two years. Totally liberating, I'm so used to running around like a chicken with my head cut off and I can't wait to see if what I've dubbed THE SYSTEM makes my life a little simpler, or, you know, livable.

Came across this via Fashion Incubator, a new favorite quote from Verbal Croquis:

This post is for those who think fashion is glamorous. This post is for those who are thinking they may want to pursue fashion as a career choice…You think designing is easy and fun? Honey, designing is only 1/10 of a designer’s job, if you’re lucky. Ordering samples, picking swatches, making samples, overseeing fittings, schmoozing over the phone, meeting with vendors, research research research, trying to get everything to cost out to your pricepoint, edit edit edit, hyperventilate, hyperventilate, hyperventilate, lather rinse repeat but make it snappy-I want it all done yesterday. Don’t get me wrong-I love all that stuff. And I love love love my job. There’s nothing else that I want to do.

My point is that’s HARD WORK. If you’re lazy, don’t get into fashion. If you imagine yourself with your sketch pad all day, get over yourself and find yourself a sugar daddy. If you’re stupid, you will get screwed over many many times, by your vendors, by your contractors, by your very own employees, employers and coworkers.

Ain't it the truth? I learnt the hard way, blindly, fumblingly and STILL feel like I know nothing at all.

SOMETHING QUITE SPECIAL

Since Mary and I started this blog a few months ago I've wanted to do a series of posts on a subject of great interest to me, sparked in part by this article, that is, the ascending stars of contemporary Canadian fashion. I've felt for awhile that there is something quite special happening amongst a set of designers who, in one way or another, have ties to this country. Not that a talented Canadian is unique, certainly, but a whole whack of them taking the fashion world by storm is, in my opinion, special. What particularly excites me about these designers is that they are making garments appealing to a truly progressive fashion client and seem to be doing so with great subtlety and ease.

That they are primarily expats working abroad says something about the possibility of success or fame for those who remain in the country - not especially encouraging for someone like myself just starting on a new line. Still, inspiring, cause for pride and certainly worthy of highlighting.

Before I ever began on my own series of posts about these designers, however, I found Laura Minquini's amazing blog, The Canadian School (from which the above chart is taken), which focuses on select rising Canadian talents including most of the big guns, Rad Hourani, Calla Haynes, Mark Fast, etc. To her list I'd love to add some who I consider up-and-comers, Clayton Evans, Jennifer Ann Gilpen, Heather Martin, Travis Taddeo, Audrey Cantwell, Maryanne Mathias.... I could go on.

Anyway, a deserving subject, and a great new blog to add to my favorites.

{image via The Canadian School}

STREET RATS

I am so very happy to have come across this, The Catorialist, enjoy.
{Thanks to Gravity.}

LOOKING SMART

Unique embroidered clutches and purses copying the first edition designs of your favorite literary classics, by Olympia Le-Tan. Found on We Love You So.

THE RAIN

Dear Elizabeth,
I woke up to the pouring rain today. Everything is grey and I cannot see the mountains beyond the bay. There appears to be no end in sight; I am reminded of the final chapters of The Grapes of Wrath. All I can think is "Thank God for my wellies!" My Hunter boots were the single most important purchase I made before moving to Vancouver and I have been so thankful ever since. In a city such as this where any morning you can awaken to something from the Book of Genesis, you need a really solid boot you can rely on to keep your feet dry. Needless to say, being able to carelessly jump in puddles is an added bonus.

I KNOW WHY THE CAGED BIRD SINGS

{ann demeulemeester images from style.com}

Perhaps I speak only for myself when I say this, but there comes a time when "pretty" is about the last thing a girl wants to project. A point is reached when freedom from all that harmless frippery and the move to a meaner, streamlined & seductively mature look seems truly desirable. The draw of making an impact vs. getting lost in the crowd.

Currently I'm feeling hugely inspired by Ann Demeulemeesters Spring 2010 collection. I love her use of skin, both human and animal, and the interplay of natural imagery & form with decidedly man-made accessories and attitude. In fact I'm rather obsessed with her zippered leather cummerbunds and chain & feather body jewellery, perhaps I'll have to work on versions for myself.

Also excited about the exaggerated length. I'm telling ya, floor-sweeping hems are the new body-con, mark my words.

ps. Mary, it snowed yesterday. Yes, I live where it snows in the second week of October. Please send furs and vodka.

FASCINATING RHYTHM

{rodarte images from style.com}

Rodarte fascinates indeed. The fairy frocks which could've dressed a childlike empress have given way in recent seasons to a different sort of fantasy. To me their Spring 2010 collection reveals a maturing eye, a different narrative, one in which the nightmare of reality is more fully realized. The influences of tribalism and survivalism seem apparent. The cobbling together of a garment, crow like, from shards of the destroyed and decayed (as well as bits of jewel here and there) evolves into a truly relatable whole. I believe the clothing's magic lies in its disintegrated finery and the trepidation to which it gives way: a beautiful unknown. This is a notion that I can presently understand and wholly embrace.
What alchemy arises when two sisters collaborate.